The Nordic countries have always been on our travel bucket list, and we started by visiting Denmark, and in this case its capital, Copenhagen. The perfect excuse to come was that Pedro would run his first half marathon here. The start of his Superhalfs. From what you see on social media, we already knew it's a very beautiful city, but these destinations also tend to be expensive, and we'll talk about all of that throughout the blog.
We arrived in Copenhagen with only one thing firmly in mind: the half marathon in Østerbro on Sunday. The rest of the week was organized around that date, almost without us realizing it, and it ended up being one of those trips we'd love to go back to.
We landed on a Wednesday late in the afternoon, because our Ryanair flight had many delays. The Airbnb was in Brønshøj, a quiet residential neighborhood on the outskirts, with low houses and bikes leaning against every door. We had eaten at McDonald's, so we only got there in time to sleep.
Nyhavn, Amalienborg and the shops on Strøget
The good thing about where we were staying was that there was a very big park where we went for walks and Pedro went training, and we also did some grocery shopping for breakfast. That's how our second day began.
Then we headed to the city center. We should also mention that to get around we bought a 5-day ticket, which is somewhat pricey (90 euros), but it's worth it because public transport works very well across the whole city and runs 24 hours, if we remember correctly.
Once in the center, we had lunch at a very interesting market, Torvehallerne, full of traditional dishes. There you'll find a wide variety of options, and we tried the famous smørrebrød.
After lunch, the plan was to get lost around the city, especially since we knew the center has lots of design shops, and so we came across several of them and even a glass workshop that was spectacular. So sometimes the best plan is to go out with no plan at all.
In the afternoon we joined a free tour which for us is a must in every destination we visit. Here they took us past the City Hall, Amalienborg and, of course, Nyhavn. The canal of colorful houses is one of those postcards you've already seen a thousand times before stepping into it, and yet it's impressive. What we didn't know is that Hans Christian Andersen lived in three different houses along that same canal throughout his life, including number 20 and number 67, and that he wrote some of his best-known fairy tales there. We enjoyed it most in the mid-afternoon as the famous golden hour approached. By the way, September is a great time to visit this Copenhagen; we had very good days, and with a long-sleeve shirt and a jacket you can spend the whole day very comfortably.
Since the tour left us here, we wandered around the area, marveling at how beautifully the city is kept, the super polite people, and, yes, being very careful with the bikes. We had dinner by the canal at an Italian restaurant, a pasta and a pizza, because we needed to load up on carbs for the race.
We hadn't forgotten that on Sunday Pedro had to run.
Christiania and the free viewpoint at Christiansborg
Friday started off surprising us, because the plan was to pick up the half marathon bib to get that out of the way and also enjoy the runner's expo, where we won a Samsung tablet. We still can't believe it, but here's the proof.
We went for brunch at a really cool café called O.12. It was a bit pricey, but it was totally worth it.
Then we took a walk along Nybrogade and Magstræde, two of the oldest streets in the city, with colorful houses that look like they're from another era because, quite literally, they are. From there we climbed up to the viewpoint at Christiansborg Palace, which is free and offers views over all of Copenhagen. We had to wait about 20 minutes to go up, but it was worth it.
Another highly recommended activity, which we did in Amsterdam, is the canal boat tour through the canals. It lets you understand the city from a different point of view and see how important the canals were to it.
Then we crossed over to Christiania, the Free Town. It was founded in 1971 when a group of squatters settled in some old, abandoned military barracks, and since then it has operated under its own rules, largely outside much of Danish law. There is street art everywhere, gardens, handmade houses, and an atmosphere that changes from street to street. That said, on what's known as Pusher Street, photography is strictly prohibited, and they mean it. We respected that and had no problems, but it's one of those things good to know before walking in with your phone in hand out of habit.
Nearby we also climbed the tower of Vor Frelsers Kirke, the Church of Our Saviour, with its external spiral staircase that wraps around the golden spire. It's not suitable for anyone with vertigo, as the steps get narrower the higher you go, but the view from the top makes up for every step.
Nørrebro, the National Museum and a sunset with too many people
On Saturday we switched gears. In the morning, a walk through Nørrebro, the most multicultural and lively neighborhood in the city, with Jægersborggade and its secondhand shops and independent cafés, and Superkilen, that urban park full of objects brought from dozens of different countries. It's weird and it works, which is the best description we can come up with.
We had lunch in the center and in the afternoon we went into the Nationalmuseet, the National Museum of Denmark, housed in the former Prince's Palace. Adult admission is around 18 euros (under-18s enter for free), and the Viking and Danish prehistory galleries take up a good part of the afternoon without you even noticing. We ended the day with a flødebolle, that round dessert of meringue dipped in chocolate that's practically an institution in Copenhagen, and a stroll through Nyboder, the district of yellow houses from the 17th century where part of The Danish Girl, the film about Lili Elbe, was filmed. Walking those streets knowing what story was told there gave the end of the day a different feel.
Race day in Østerbro
Sunday was the real reason for the trip. We left early for Østerbro with nerves already running high since the day before. Running in a city that isn't your own completely changes the experience, and to top it off, this was the only day the weather was bad. The course passes through streets we already recognized from the previous days, the crowd cheers in Danish and English in equal measure, and there's something special about crossing the finish line in a place that just four days earlier we couldn't even pronounce properly. But without a doubt, the Copenhagen half marathon is highly recommended.
After the race, tired legs but adrenaline running high. We ate at the runners' expo, and then, without wasting much time, we went to see the famous Shrek church, and we had to tilt our heads way back to see it properly.
We ended the day with one of the best culinary experiences of our lives: a tasting menu at a community garden on a rooftop, which was exquisite and very intimate at the same time. It's pricey, but we believe it's totally worth it. We're leaving their page here https://www.grospiseri.dk/
That was our experience in this incredible city, and we're sure we'll be back.
💡 Tips from Pedro & Karyna
🚲 How to get around, the bike is the real way to get around Copenhagen, not a tourist brochure cliché. If you don't want to rent one, the City Pass Small covers metro, train and bus in zones 1-4 (including the airport): from 100 DKK for 24 hours up to 340 DKK for 120 hours. For single trips, a 2-zone ticket costs 24 DKK and goes up depending on distance.
🍽️ Eating without overspending Use the ToGoodToGo app in the evening, it works wonders in Copenhagen, and we rescued several dinners from bakeries and restaurants at half price. For something more casual, Reffen and Copenhagen Street Food are street food markets by the water, ideal for trying a bit of everything without committing to one place. You can also cook, and the supermarkets offer plenty of variety too.
📸 In Christiania you're allowed to walk around, shop and sit in any bar, but on Pusher Street you cannot take photos under any circumstances. Put your phone away before entering that particular street; the rest of the Free Town can be photographed without any problem.
📅 When to go, we went in mid-September and the weather was good almost every day, with light until late in the evening and mild temperatures for walking and running. If your trip revolves around a race too, book your Airbnb early because prices go up around those dates.
FAQ: Copenhagen
How many days do you need to see Copenhagen?
We stayed 6 days (arriving on a Wednesday afternoon, returning on Monday), and it was more than enough for the center, Christiania, Nørrebro and the National Museum at a relaxed pace. With the half marathon in the middle, 4-5 full days is a good amount if it's just for sightseeing.
How to get around Copenhagen?
By bike, really: that's how the whole city moves. If you don't rent one, the City Pass Small covers metro, train and bus in zones 1-4 (from 100 DKK/24h to 340 DKK/120h); a single 2-zone trip costs 24 DKK.
When is the best time to visit Copenhagen?
We went in mid-September and got it right: good weather, light until late and perfect temperatures for walking (and running). If your trip also revolves around a race, book your accommodation early because prices go up on those dates.
Is Copenhagen expensive? How can you spend less on food?
Yes, it's one of the most expensive destinations we've visited. To make up for it, we used ToGoodToGo in the evenings (half-price dinners) and markets like Reffen or Copenhagen Street Food to eat a variety of foods without going to a formal restaurant.
Can you visit Christiania and take photos?
Yes, you can walk around, shop and sit in any bar without any problem. The only thing forbidden is taking photos on Pusher Street, and they take that very seriously there: put your phone away before entering that street.
Have you been to Copenhagen? Is there a design corner or a neighborhood we missed? Let us know in the comments 👇
